The night of December 23, 2013 marked the starting point of my road to endless adventure. I took my first solo trip and hopped on a bus with my backpack and social anxiety. I stepped back in time to this province called Ilocos Sur.
Christmas lovers would definitely have fun visiting Vigan during the holidays. Everything in this place was filled with Christmas lights, decors, trees and more.
I picked Part
as Bus bound for Vigan as per the recommendation of my friend. I had to go to their Pasay Terminal one month in advance to purchase the ticket. To get to the terminal from MRT Edsa-Taft Station, I just walked for about 10 minutes. One of the bus barkers I asked for directions said that riding a tricycle to the Partas Bus Terminal would cost me Php 10.
I picked the 9pm schedule and was 6th on the list. Note that they only allot reservations for the 9pm and 10pm trips during the Christmas time. From my understanding, all other scheduled trips could only be bought during the actual date. But I spared myself from the headache and bought ahead of time especially because I was planning to travel during a holiday. Good thing because all tickets eventually got sold out. The bus, however, departed one hour behind schedule. It was probably due to the holiday rush. We left Pasay at around 10pm and arrived in Vigan at 7:30am.
Partas Bus Terminal
Address: Aurora Boulevard, Pasay City, Philippines
Fare: around P700 (prices steep during Christmas)
Christmas Trips Schedule: Every hour; Reservation is only allowed for 9pm and 10pm trips
Travel Time: 7 hours
Upon arrival
, I decided to drop by Coffee Swings to inform Alma, the owner of the lodging house, of my arrival. The lodging house is just a quick stroll from the Partas Bus Terminal. The location of the lodging house is perfect. It is smacked right in the center of all the tourist sites. Not to mention, it is just 2 short blocks away from Calle Crisologo. During the course of the day’s stroll under the heat, it was easy for me to walk back to this place to take a nap and freshen up. Alma and her staff were very helpful and accommodating to my questions. Alma was even so nice to invite me to their family’s Noche Buena.
Coffee Swings
Address: Gov. A. Reyes Street, Vigan, Ilocos Sur
Rate: Starts at P1200 for a standard AC room for 2 pax with free wi-fi and breakfast
One of my joys in Vigan is that the sites were near to each other. There was not much worrying about my transportation costs. I didn’t take the kalesa ride which costs P150 an hour because I wanted to have my own pace. Below is a map that will help you get going in Vigan. Follow the arrows for my suggested walking tour map.
Start Point: Crisologo Street
End Point: Syquia Mansion
Distance: 3.9 km
ITINERARIES
Most would cramp their Vigan itinerary in just a half day. But I preferred spending one whole day in Vigan so I could lavishly enjoy the sumptuous culture and history that it could offer. Day 1 of my trip which happened on a Christmas eve was all about walking around, and around, and around Vigan with a short a side trip to the town of Bantay.
I started off my day by doing my personalized walking tour posted above. I allocated the ancestral house visits during the afternoon to avoid the midday sun. It was unfortunate that most of the ancestral houses, museums, shops and restaurants are closed during the Christmas holidays.
At night, I found a couple of things to do. There’s a mini bazaar at Plaza Maestro, and the most-awaited Dancing Fountain Show that happens every night at Plaza Salcedo. You could also opt to attend the Christmas eve mass at Vigan Cathedral, play around with the kids at Plaza Burgos, or discover the nightlife at Calle Crisologo.
Day 2 was all about side trips. I went to the towns of Banaoang, Narvacan and Santa Maria. I was supposed to head home right after visiting these sites, but I realized I still had the hotel room key with me. So I decided to go back to Vigan to return it. And since I was already back in Vigan, I continued my adventure and head to Baluarte via a tricycle. I paid P50 (tourist/holiday price), one-way, to get to Baluarte.
Baluarte is where I met Mark, the care-taker of the tigers. He befriended me because he said that he was so curious when he saw me alone. It was his first time to meet a solo-traveler. He was very kind to tour me around the zoo. After that, I spontaneously hopped on the back of his motorbike, my first time to ride one, and he took me to Pagburnayan Jar Factory and Mindoro beach before he dropped me off the Partas bus station.
Calle Crisologo. When I arrived at Calle Crisologo at 8 in the morning, the place was deserted, peaceful and supremely beautiful. It was a nice time to admire the historic site before the hustle and bustle. I enjoyed the cool morning temperature that was paired with the sound of horses walking along the cobblestone street.
I kept coming back to Calle Crisologo throughout the day because it gave me a different mood every time. Every little detail was a feast for the eyes and camera! At midday, the bright sun intensified the warm vintage colors of the heritage houses. The street became a busy marketplace filled with mostly families who are celebrating Christmas together. At night, the street was fully lit, giving off a romantic vibe to everyone walking along the street.
Plaza Burgos. At the end of Calle Crisologo is a plaza where the monument of Padre Burgos and many century-old trees reside. At night, the plaza becomes busy with kids playing and running around. This place is most famous for the Empanadahan.
Plaza Salcedo. Plaza Salcedo is famous for its world-class fountain display. Historically, the fountain used to be a lagoon; it was created as a unique solution the city’s need of water during times of fire. At night, tourists and locals converge to Plaza Salcedo to witness the Dancing Fountain Show. The show takes place every night at 7:30pm and 8:30pm, and it lasts for 30 minutes.
The side opposite to the Burgos street is my recommended spot. This is where you could view the projected laser light images and texts.
The place was already filled up when I came at around 7 in the evening; but, I still managed to find a good spot. I enjoyed the entire experience that the show gave me. I liked the songs that were played. It was a combination of favorite local and international hits, and a spoonful of Christmas songs medley. The vibrant lasers, lights and amazing water effects triggered a lot of “oohs” and “aahs” from the audience. Everyone was just feeling the spirit of Christmas, and the joy was very contagious.
There is a diorama of the man-made wonders around the world in Plaza Salcedo that is often overlooked. In addition, there is also a 3-dimensional scale model of the city informing about the different heritage sites around the city.
Vigan Cathedral. Vigan Cathedral, or St. Paul Cathedral, boasts of high ceiling and bright interior. Church-goers filled up the cathedral at night to attend the Christmas eve mass. I wanted to attend the Christmas eve mass but hesitated because I was wearing shorts. I didn’t want to disrespect anyone. I regret forgetting to bring my pants! Maybe next time.
Crisologo Museum. Getting inside the Crisologo Museum is like being transported to the Spanish colonial era. The Crisologos, a prominent political dynasty in Vigan, converted their ancestral home into a museum to pay tribute to the life and death of Congressman Floro Crisologo.
I enjoyed uncovering the 100-year old home which houses abundant pieces of antique furniture, photos, paintings, books, clothes, shoes, tools, equipment, means of transport, election paraphernalia and other well-preserved prized possessions and memorabilia of the family. I like how well-preserved the ancestral house is because it made me deeply understand and appreciate the rich history and culture of Vigan.
Entrance Fee: Free
Opening Hours: 9:00AM – 5:00PM (with lunch break)
Open everyday except Tuesdays
Syquia Mansion. Syquia mansion is the home of the late president Elpidio Quirino. It is actually owned by his wife, Alicia Syquia. Thus, the name. Everything in here screams glamor and grandness. Upon climbing up the second floor, I was courted with an airy living room, antique furniture, high ceiling, huge paintings, huge mirrors, window drapes, and statues.
The large drapes that hang above the long dining table are a unique feature of the house and had an interesting function during the Spanish colonial time. Turns out that these drapes did not serve just a decoration; they served as hand-operated fans to keep the flies away. Yes, they were operated by their servants.
As I explored the second floor of the mansion a little bit further, I arrived at, I would say, my favorite part of the mansion -a central courtyard accented by a fountain in the middle. And the yellow floor tiles were very elegant. This courtyard took the opulent mansion to the next level.
Find the authentic Ming Dynasty vase displayed at the living room. It was a present to the Quirino family from the emperor. Also, find the servant’s passageway along the walls of the house. Servants are said to use this secret corridor to avoid getting seen by the house guests.
Entrance Fee: Php 20 (with tour guide)
Opening Hours: 9:00AM – 5:00PM (with lunch break); open everyday except Tuesdays
Baluarte. Baluarte is the 70-hectare home of the prominent Governor of Ilocos Sur, Chavit Singson. He opened his wildlife sanctuary to the public for free because he wanted to boost the tourism of the province.
One thing I admire here is how they take care of the animals. The deer, goats, llamas, miniature horses, camels and ostriches freely wander around the wide green field; and interact with the guests as well. These animals even have the freedom to hop out or pass through the holes on the fence; usually helping themselves get some drink. Mark, the care-taker of the tigers, also said that the tigers are released regularly in the big backyard to play.
Entrance Fee: Free
Opening Hours: 7:00AM – 6:00PM; open everyday
Pagburnayan Jar Factory. Mark and I dropped bythe Pagburnayan Jar Factory since it was on our way to Mindoro Beach. These are clay jars that are crafted by hand. They come in different shapes, sizes and designs. I was amazed at how many jars there were in this factory. Apparently, people of Vigan still uses it to store food like water, rice, basi, fish sauce and vinegar.
Entrance Fee: Free
Opening Hours: 9:00AM- 6:00PM; open everyday
Mindoro Beach. I was welcomed with fine black sand and big waves at Mindoro Beach. The waves could be strong here, the gigantic concrete waves that are scattered around the beach says it all. Thus, swimming is with great caution.
Mindoro beach is a nice place for a sunset stroll. Pair it with a bottle of beer to match the breezy weather.
Entrance Fee: Free
Opening Hours: 24/7
Irene’s Vigan Empanada. While strolling along Calle Crisologo, I spotted this store, and I didn’t stop myself from having a bite at their famous empanada for breakfast. The empanadas here are soft and chewy.
Empanadahan. Located in Plaza Burgos, the Empanadahan is a go-to place for people like me who are on a budget and wants to eat where the locals eat. It offers good ilocano dishes such as bagnet, longganisa, crunchy empanada and sinanglaw. You can order various food from the different kiosks.
I had a bowl of Sinanglaw, a cup of rice and an ice-cold soft drink for lunch. Sinanglaw is a beef broth with beef innards and skin. Finding it, I just asked a staff in empanadahan, and he kindly pointed to the kiosk selling it. Over lunch, I had the chance to talk with one of the owners who was seated beside me. I found out that they had been in operation for 24 hours since the start of Simbang Gabi. Sinanglaw is a popular hit to Simbang Gabi mass-goers who want to pair their cool December mornings with a hot soup.
At nighttime, there were fewer kiosks opened in Empanadahan. I wanted to try Vigan’s longganisa this time. I munched on a sweet and very tasty one for dinner. It was on a stick so it was easy to grab and go. But I chose to eat it there with a cup of rice and vinegar on the side.
JTC Supermarket. Cheapskates also need to quench their thirst throughout the day. There’s a local grocery store in town called JTC Supermarket. It is just conveniently located along Calle Crisologo.
Recommended Posts:
The Baratpacker 
Pingback: Banaoang-Narvacan-Sta. Maria (Ilocos Sur Side Trips) | The Baratpacker
Pingback: Bantay | The Baratpacker
Pingback: Taal Heritage Town – DIY – Day Trip | The Baratpacker
Pingback: DIY Walking Tour in Taal Heritage Town – Day Trip | The Baratpacker